Running across Rajasthan: Part 2 - Jaisalmer

Ram Ram Sa!

A friend and I backpacked across Rajasthan last year, planning pretty much the entire trip on our own, right from travel, bookings, hotel, itinerary, etc. And I decided to share the experiences with you. Since writing about all the cities in one post would be looonnnggg, I am writing one city at a time.

Some useful websites, our itinerary and all about our first destination - Jaipur can be found in this post: http://haemlet.blogspot.in/2013/02/running-across-rajasthan.html

I move on to our second destination.

JAISALMER

Please allow me to proclaim right at the outset that Jaisalmer was my favourite destination on this trip. So anything I say will reflect my awe of the place.

Jaisalmer is a small desert town, located in Western Rajasthan. The main attraction there is a live fort (that means, people still live inside it) called The Golden Fort. But it is not just the fort, the entire city seems to be basking in this golden glow with the houses surrounding the fort all the same colour. Jaisalmer is also a culture   haven, with a delightful local flavour. You will love just walking down the streets taking in the atmosphere. Another attraction here are the sand dunes, that are situated on the outskirts. You can visit these dunes, even stay the night there in tents, or simply take a camel ride and return.

Reaching there

Unlike Jaipur, Jaisalmer is not easily accessible from anywhere in the country. The train we took to Jaisalmer starts from Delhi, and we boarded the same at Jaipur. If you are coming in from any other city, the best way to reach here would be via Jodhpur. Jodhpur is relatively well-connected to other parts of the country, and you can find regular buses/trains from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer.

How many days

We were in Jaisalmer for two whole days and one night. It is quite comfortable, unless you plan to stay at the dunes. Then you could add a night in a tent at the dunes.

Where to stay

I loved the little hotel we stayed at in Jaisalmer. Called the Artist Hotel, it is not something that everyone may like, because it completely no-frills and quite small. A friend recommended it highly, and after staying there, we couldn't agree more. The hotel had clean, simple rooms starting Rs. 400 (you read right!) and a rooftop with a few tables where you could have your meals (and maybe a beer). I was going to direct you to their site (http://www.artisthotel.info/) and highly recommend them, but then I just read that the management has changed. Aladin, who was everyone's go-to man there, has started his own little hotel though, and his hospitality is definitely memorable.                

Artist Hotel

If you prefer luxury though, Jaisalmer also has heritage hotels that are well-known. As the locals told us, many havelis (houses of wealthy merchants) are turned into a hotel, and since all havelis have the flourish, the stone carvings et al, they are dubbed as heritage hotels.

You can also live in the hotels INSIDE the fort, but personally, I found them over-priced. Everything is within walking distance of the fort anyway, so distance is not something you need to worry about. 

Sightseeing

Let me begin with THE GOLDEN FORT. Jaisalmer is built around this fort, that stands tall forming a golden backdrop. The fort itself is one of the few remaining living forts in the world. As you walk in, you will be greeted by people selling colourful wares, from puppets to wall hangings, artifacts, idols and more.

A tightrope walker at the fort entrance

The entrance to the fort

Within the fort, there is the main palace turned museum. It shuts by 5 pm, and takes about 2-3 hours inside. The best part about this when we visited was the Audio Guide System. The Rajasthan government has started this in almost all tourist destinations, where you can avail this audio guide in various languages. They have numbered boards and arrows directing you around. Reach a board, press a number on the guide, and hear all about it, with special sound effects mind you! Since we were just two, they were nice enough to give us one guide, and two earphones.

Audio guide systems

The palace is beautiful. It has several sections, and I could not stop admiring the lattice work on the windows, the carvings and the intricate detailing. The way they kept the rooms cool with khus curtains or how they ensured water supply with brilliant engineering are astounding. 

Latticework

The palace has a lovely view from the top, where you can also spot the windmills in the distance.

View from the palace roof

After the palace, we sat outside at a local tea stall, chatting up the locals. I think that is the best way to know about a place. The locals told us about the past, the current situation, how the fort manages to survive wear and tear over the years and more. A helpful shopkeeper directed us to a cannon inside the fort, and then to a rooftop where we could watch the sun set. Usually the rooftop place is a hotel/restaurant during peak season, but we got a free tour *grins*.

A rooftop restaurant inside the fort

Inside the fort are also a few havelis and temples. We visited the LAXMI-NARAYAN TEMPLE that had some admirable stonework. It was also a cricket field for local kids.

Laxmi Narayan Temple stone-work

We strolled back to the hotel, chatting up locals on the way. That evening was spent  on the hotel roof, where they had local musicians performing. The musicians, brilliant nonetheless, refused to stop! We also met some lovely people here for dinner, from different parts of the world.

The next day, we started off with a visit to the two major havelis. There is the PATWON KI HAVELI (which is pretty big), and NATHMAL KI HAVELI.

Patwon ki Haveli

Nathmal ki Haveli

We had booked a visit to the dunes, and left by 3 pm. The most popular dunes are the SAM SAND DUNES. There are also the KHURI DUNES and some smaller ones. We were taken to the Khuri dunes, but I would suggest travellers to pick Sam Dunes instead. Khuri is hardly frequented, and as a result we were the only two people there, plus the camels.

The experience itself was pretty nice, with a two hour jeep ride to the Khuri Dunes first, that was dotted with windmills along the way.

From the main area where the tents are pitched is an hour long camel ride to the dunes (ouch!), where you can watch the sun set. While we waited for the sun to set, we also decided to roll down the dunes, which was a lot of fun, and a lot of sand inside all your clothes! 

After sunset, we returned to the main area for dinner and performances. The dancer and a little boy who was singing were spectacular!

The performers for the night

Besides these, there is also GADSISER LAKE, which is picturesque and should not take a lot of your time. You can time your visit around the Camel Festival (we went just before it started), but if you do so, plan months ahead, book months ahead, and prepare for a large amount of crowd.

We took the night train to Jodhpur. Jaisalmer, even though it has very little in terms of sightseeing, was a town that I absolutely loved.

Shopping and food

As you walk down the narrow lanes to the fort, the shopkeepers here have found the most innovative way to attract tourists - hilarious signs like these.

Jaisalmer does not have much to offer for shopaholics. You can find all of it and more at cheaper rates in Jaipur and Udaipur. Tip: The silver and stone jewellery at shops here, though stunning, is very overpriced. If you really like something, be sure to bargain your best.

The food is ordinary fare. You will not find a variety of cuisines, and even if you do, I am not sure how much you can trust them to make an 'Au gratin'. I would say stick to the normal dal-rice-chapati-vegetable fare unless the hotel you are staying at offers something more.

My learning

• Chat up the locals, but politely refuse if they try to sell you anything. They do not take offense and are still eager to help tourists as long as you are polite.
• Ask the locals about the history and background of the town.
• Do not experiment with meals. Stick to normal fare.
• You can book tours from your hotel guide, but be sure to check around for prices first.
• Don't fall for the 'it is less touristy' speech. Less touristy can also mean no one except you, which is, quite frankly very boring. In a small place like Jaisalmer, rest assured that even touristy will not mean crowded.
• Take the audio tours!

The next post shall be about Jodhpur and Udaipur. See you around!

P.S.: A reminder that these pictures are my copyright. No stealing. No copy pasting. Give credit, link back to my blog, respect my rights. Capiche?

Running across Rajasthan: Part 1 - Jaipur

So, I have finally kicked myself and got around to finishing a post about my trip to Rajasthan! Read on.
(warning: this is a pretty long blog post, so I will break it into several city-wise posts).

P.S.: I will also include a section called 'My learning' at the end of each city, for tips, suggestions based on my experience.

Rajasthan has always been one of the top destinations on my wishlist, for a reason. India is stunning, and Rajasthan is one of the foremost places in the country to visit, housing a treasure trove of culture, astounding structures, colour and warmth!

THE PLANNING:

Now, one thing one must keep in mind while planning a Rajasthan trip is that the railways in that state are very disconnected. The cities you might want to visit are probably not entirely connected, and access can be tough. Road is an option if you have the money to hire a car throughout, or are with a big group and willing to sleep in that uncomfortable position. But otherwise, all you need to do is sit down with a large map and plan out a route. Which is precisely what we did. And knowing what are the challenges, questions we faced, I thought it would be a good idea to share them for future travellers.

There are so many places - the big cities like Jaipur, Udaipur, temple towns like Ajmer, Pushkar and Nathdwara, historical places like Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, also Bikaner... but we had limited time. We chalked out a route with the help of a map, and the Indian railways. www.Indianrailinfo.com is very useful to check the list of trains between cities.

WHEN TO VISIT- Weather:

Rajasthan is partly a desert state, and the climate reflects the same. We visited in mid-Jan, which is peak winters, with temperatures dropping to 3 degrees in certain regions. Despite that, Rajasthan is wonderful at this time of the year, as you escape the sweltering heat, or 'loo ki garmi' as they locally call it. Personally, I loved the chilly air, that was pleasant during the day, but needed 3-4 layers of clothes as night approached. Avoid March to June as far as possible unless you are someone who can bear being roasted in the sun. September November is pleasant too, but extremely crowded, being festive season.

You can also time your trip around the myriad of local fairs and festivals in the state if you want a taste of the festivities. But if you are doing that, be sure to have your stay and travel in place well in advance since everything will be booked otherwise.

USEFUL WEBSITES:

• http://www.rajasthantourism.gov.in - The Rajasthan government website is very useful, especially if you are not familiar with destinations.
• http://www.rtdc.in/ - The government website for bookings and practical needs. You can book hotels, journeys and more here.
• http://indiarailinfo.com/ and https://www.irctc.co.in/ - Look up trains and routes with the former, book from the latter (warning: irctc website is reaaallllyyy slow)
• The fairs and festivals, though crowded, are a memorable experience. If you want to time your trip around them, here is the calendar: http://www.rajasthantourism.gov.in/Attractions/Fairs-Festivals.aspx

For everything else, the state is quite friendly and you will be able to get around quite easily.

Our itinerary was:
Mumbai -> Jaipur (1N) -> Jaisalmer (1N) -> Jodhpur -> Nathdwara (1N) -> Udaipur (2N) -> Mumbai

Let me warn you, except for the time in Udaipur, our trip was very hectic. But I must add, I loved how the Rajasthan government has made the state tourist-friendly. Right from audio guides (They are amazing!) to English signs, information desks and so much more.

JAIPUR

We took the night train from Mumbai to Jaipur, which is pretty convenient, and got us there by around noon.

Where to stay

I would recommend staying in Central Jaipur. The area close to Indra Bazaar would be convenient as you can walk down to the market/palace area, and are still a little away from chaos. You can take a leisurely walk down the streets, flanked by the pink shops on both ends, with the burst of colours, or take a cycle rickshaw.

Sightseeing

You can get a combined ticket for about 6 tourist spots. I say - BUY! You don't have to bother about lines and tickets everywhere and it is cheaper too.

Albert Hall Museum, Jantar Mantar, Hawa Mahal, City Palace are all within walking distance of each other. Amber Palace and Nahargarh are about 20 minutes away, but there are regular shuttle bus services from the market centre.

Most places shut by 5 pm, so you plan your day accordingly. We strolled the markets on the first day as it was already 3 pm by the time we left the hotel. We started early the next day and visited the City Palace, Hawa Mahal and Jantar Mantar, with a lunch break in between. And it was already 5 by then.

Hawa Mahal

The HAWA MAHAL is a beautiful structure, with a magnificent fountain greeting you as soon as you enter.

View from the top

Stained glass

The rooms are adorned with stained glass that makes the light dance in hues of red, blue, green and yellow. The palace has an open terrrace that gives you a breathtaking view of the entire city with the backdrop of the Nahargarh Fort on a mountain.

The City Palace is humongous, with the artifacts in numerous rooms testimony to the glorious history of Jaipur. 

Darbans (palace guards) dressed in traditional attire spell royalty as you wade past the large embellished doors and the stone jaaliwork (net-like carving).

Jantar Mantar is fascinating with the sun-dials and astronomy instruments, but you can skip this if you have   seen the one in Delhi. If not, do pay it a visit.

The sun-dial at Jantar Mantar

We did not get a chance to visit Nahargarh Fort or Amber Palace, but they are definitely worth a trip. You can head there in the morning, and lunch at the government-led restaurant (Durg Cafe - http://www.rtdc.in/durgcafe.htm), with a view you will not forget. I insist you make time for this in your itinerary.

Another must-visit in Jaipur is Chokhi Dhani. Now I agree there are many versions of this spread across the country, but this is the real deal. We planned the visit in the evening, leaving the hotel at around 5 pm. Our hotel booked us the rickshaw (at a reasonable cost - Rs. 500 both ways) that would take us to and fro since it is out of the city. But we were not prepared for the freezing winds that attacked us due to the open vehicle. At Chokhi Dhani (Rs. 400 for entry and dinner), we loved every bit, from the performances, the ambience, just strolling about the 'village-style' property, magic and puppet shows, fireplaces and cots strewn about, and finger-licking food.

Shopping and Food

Let me start with 'Carry a large empty bag', because Jaipur is quite a shopping haven. The best part is that the shopping area is one big central location, a few kilometers long. Starting from Indra Bazaar to Babu Bazaar and a few others, walk down the roads with pink shops on both sides. I would suggest take a walk, check out everything, compare prices, then go back to buy.

Among the things you can look for are - colourful tie and dye dupattas (for about a 100 rupees each), tie and dye sarees in all kinds of materials (I bought a lovely thin silk one with embroidered peacocks for only Rs. 500), mojris in camel leather starting from Rs. 150, jewellery (pretty and cheap on the streets), bedsheets (these are awesome and not expensive either), wall hangings, and ethnic home decor items... I can go on. There is an intricate shopping area (like Crawford Market in Mumbai) called Purohit ji ka Katla, where you can find items at wholesale prices.



But remember one rule - BARGAIN BARGAIN BARGAIN.

For food, we would just stop by and taste the street food whenever hunger struck. You can walk into the small restaurants and order a 'thali' too. If you don't have the stomach for all that, there are restaurants with a variety of cuisines outside the main market area. In the evening on our second day, a friend took us to a rooftop restaurant - The Terrace Grill, which had nice ambience and interesting heater lamps if you are in the mood for it.

My learning

• One and a half day is not enough is Jaipur.
• Carry empty bags for all the shopping, and if Jaipur is first on your itinerary, be prepared to lug it around (read: backache)
• Local buses are pretty convenient and cheap too, and definitely worth a try.
• The local cops are extremely helpful, especially if they know you are two girls travelling alone.
• Don't fall for the 'we are selling at cost price' plea while bargaining.
• If you like something, pick it up. You will not remember the shop when you try looking for it again.
• Carry warm clothes, especially something to cover your ears (Three layers were not enough).

We took the night train directly to Jaisalmer, reaching there by about 11 am.
(Read about Jaisalmer in the next post)

P.S. All pictures are my copyright ok! Takes a lot of effort to lug around a DSLR, so don't take away my credit please. :)

Mini-post: Scented memories

**********
Softly scented memories wafting through the corners of my mind. 
The scents that once enveloped me. The scents that have drifted away.

************

Aarzoo kehte hain isse

आरज़ू कहते हैं इसे,
हठ्ठि है ये बड़ी,
छिपा के रख दिया था कहीं,
एक दिन अचानक ही उठ पड़ी|

मन की सिपाही है,
सीना ताने दंट्के खड़ी,
हार बहुत देखी है इसने,
पर हार ये माने नहीं|

कह सकते हैं महामारी है,
मुश्किल है मिटाना जो एक बार लगती,
बस जाए जड़ें बनाकर,
नशे सी ये रूह में रीस्ती|

हक़ीक़त से मूह मोड़ना ये जाने,
शीशमहल ख्वाबों में बनवाए,
पंख बाँटती मुफ़्त में हर ख्वाब को,
भ्रम के टूटने से इसे कहाँ खरोंच आए|

ईंधन है ये कभी दौड़ाए कभी जलाए,
हवा में खेल दिखाए,
सोच से बड़ी एक दुनिया से रूबरू कराए,
लेकिन डूबे तो साथ सब कुछ डूबाए|

हमेशा होगी कहीं छिपते छिपाते,
नकारो चाहे जितना, चाहे जितना करो चूर,
हर ख़याल में बसी,
यह आरज़ू न होगी दूर|

आरज़ू कहते हैं इससे,
हठ्ठि है यह बड़ी,
छिपा के रख दिया था कहीं,
एक दिन अचानक ही उठ पड़ी|

- © Haem Roy

11th Jan, 2013.

Haem makes a new blog!

I am very excited!

As some friends put it, "finally" I have started another blog that will feature JUST the stuff I make.

Now what do I make you ask?

I have posted a few recipes now and then on this blog. So, that would be food. Baked, not baked, cooked, etc etc. I will be posting recipes more often now that I have a dedicated blog for it. I wasn't till date, because I did not want to clog this one with just recipes.

In addition, once in a while I try my hand at a bit of DIY. So that shall go up there too. Marinating in my head currently are ideas on making hair accessories. I have loads. So those will go up there too, soon.

Now what is the blog you ask?

Let me have a bit of fun here.

My name is Haem. What ever goes on the blog is made at home, by Haem. Hence... what can the blog be?
You got it! HAEM-MADE!

No no, please don't roll my eyes. It is fun! Come on! Here, check it yourself:
WWW.HAEM-MADE.BLOGSPOT.IN

It is new and fresh and budding and all that. Posts will slowly grow, and they shall grow faster if watered with your attention, feedback, love and care (pretty please?).
:)

Looking forward to making more there, and writing more here.

Interviewing the tree people

Hello readers!

This is my first interview for the blog... and I think an awesome first.

You may have heard of Project 35 trees. No? Shame shame! Here, read this (I insist!) - https://www.facebook.com/35trees?fref=ts

Hari and Anthony - two guys who are travelling the country and not just planting saplings in every state, but talking to students, locals and more, to spread the green culture. Now, naturally, I had a lot of questions for them... and so I wrote to Hari, who was kind enough to reply to ALL of them without scowling at me. *phew*.

PAITEES PED, DO MAALI! (don't you love me for the title?)

An interview with one of the men behind Project 35 trees – Hari Chakyar.

ME: Hari… Hara… you were born to do this! Do you have some weird story where you were found under a tree by your parents and always dreamt of going back?

HARI: Ae! I am not Mowgli!

ME: If you were a tree, which one would you be and why?

HARI: I would love to be a coconut tree. That way every part of me would be used. Not that I want to feel used but imagine doing something extraordinary with every part of your body and that’ll feel like an unbeatable record.

ME (snidely): Hmm... so you want more coconuts?

ME: Are you Tarzan’s long lost sibling, with more clothes of course?

HARI: Statutory Warning: Swinging on trees is not good for health. Of the trees. Kindly refrain from doing so. Having said that, I would love to live in a forest and gather my own food just like Tarzan. Then I wouldn’t have to shave either. How awesome is that?!

ME: You have a partner in this. You have already claimed green. So what colour is he?

HARI: Anthony Karbhari. Mostly, he’s the blues. He’s the mulling type. He thinks his shots over. You should see the face he makes while at work!

Oh and he also has a few blue t-shirts.

ME: Did you eat a certain type of grass to come up with this idea? I mean, nature inspiring nature of course. What did you think?

HARI: If eating grass and stuff gave you ideas, I should’ve won the Nobel Prize for being a vegetarian by now! But nature did inspire me – all the nature in Sanjay Gandhi National Park and around Karnala Fort. Oh and the Wilson College Nature Club!

ME: How are you funding this? Don’t tell me money plants actually work!

HARI: Oh they do, you should try the Mahua tree. But my funds don’t come from that or any other trees. This India tour is sponsored by many well-meaning people who have contributed small amounts of money in cash or by directly sending money to my account. A lot of them have also funded it through this crowd-funding page - http://www.wishberry.in/users/wishlistview/14320

ME (to all the readers): Click the link already. The only virus it will spread is green and makes oxygen.

ME: You started in Mumbai and have already travelled a bit. Where all have you sown your seeds?

HARI: No seeds, only saplings...planted in *takes a deep breath* Daman, Silvassa, Baroda, Indore, Jaipur, Delhi, Gurgaon, Amritsar, Jammu, Chandigarh, Manali, Dehradun, Agra, Patna, Gangtok, Guwahati, Shillong, Nagaland and Imphal. Phew!

ME (to myself): Dammit! Sowing seeds joke totally lost on him :(

ME: So, we will find little Haris in those places soon? (I mean, saplings you know) :D

HARI: Of course! You’ll find my baby trees in all of these places already but give them a few years and they’ll be taller than you!

ME: Aye! No short jokes. I am the one interviewing you!

ME: How are you travelling from point to point? And where are you staying?

HARI: Public transport – bus, train, autorickshaws, cycle rickshaws, tumtums (called Vikram in Dehradun) and so on. On the list but yet to be ticked off are trucks, boats and hitchhiking.

In every state, we try and live with a host family to give us free lodging and free food. In most places they have also been kind enough to take us around themselves. This part of the project is very interesting because we reach there as strangers but by the time we have to leave, we’re family.

In some places, we’ve had to live in hotels but even in those places, we now have friends for life!

ME: You mean, people actually let you enter their homes with soil on your shoes? So kind!

HARI: Surprise no? In some places, we get there looking like monsters – hairy, dishevelled and untidy but we make sure we tidy up soon.

ME: Have you encountered any tree people yet? Did anyone mistake you for a vegetable and eat you?

HARI: No tree people but I did spot this guy at a railway station on the way from Indore to Jaipur. I would love to dress colour-coded like an evergreen tree! He looks uncannily like a guy from my office! Here is a picture -

ME: Are you going to dance around trees? Is there going to be a video? Can people who contribute get exclusive access to it?

HARI: I am developing a pole-dance version of the Chipko movement where you hug a tree and dance around it to the tune of Gangnam Style. But for that we’ll have to wait till the saplings I’ve planted have grown. You okay with that? Access kya, people who contribute can dance with me. Chipko is a group activity anyway.

ME (to readers): Interested dancers may apply

ME: Your moustache seems to grow with every city. Are you hiding the saplings in there?

HARI: Haha, how did you notice that? My handlebar looks awesome now. I haven’t touched them since I left. I’ve however been trimming my muttonchops beard only because I don’t want school students to be scared of me.

(I run out scared and screaming)

ME: You are just doing this so that you can have a tree-house in every state no? Sach sach bolo!

HARI: You caught me there! With real estate prices going the way they are, it’ll help no? Plus, imagine having a toilet in every state in India!

ME: After swinging all ways (I mean, literally) when are you going to be back to the city?

HARI: *Narrows eyes and stares* We should be back in Mumbai in the third week of January that’ll give us one week to chill before we start our normal work days. I’ve been craving for some vada pao but!

ME: Vada pao on me when you return!
...................................................................
...................................................................


I ALSO made a poster (pardon my art skills).
(P.S.: A shout out to those with good art skills - if you can and wish to make a better poster, you shall be rewarded with pappis from our very own Hari Chakyar)

Disclaimer: Creative representation of Project '35 trees'. Hari interjects passionately pointing out that they are not planting 'only 35' trees. On last count, they were close to 100 in 19 states, and they still have a long way to go.

Jhaank kar dekho...

An extension of what I had written on twitter, in a lovely poetic conversation with @urm1 and @talli_redux. (Go follow them! And I'm @haemlet if you guys didn't know).

................

Jhaank kar dekho zara,

Surkhiyon mein jo baithi hai kahin,
Mitti si hai khurduri,
Sardi ki dhup si makhmali,
Karkaraati hui,
Khankhanaati hui,
Satrangi pagchinh chode,
Mann mein mandraye chankaati hui.
Dhuein si faile,
Palkon par pighle,
kabhi roshni si aa jaaye chupke se,
Kabhi shararati bachche sa dhindhora peete.
Jhaank kar dekho zara,
Surkhiyon mein jo baithi hai kahin,
Sab jaane, tumhari rooh ko basera maane,
Shayad woh mohabbat ki hi surat toh nahin?

- © Haem Roy

29 Nov, 2012.

WITHIN YOU...

Inspired by someone I know, this one is about taking chances. About believing in the golden road ahead, and following it, just for the journey, without fear of the destination.

Within you lies what could set you free,
The will to calm the demons,
The dreams of what freedom could be.

Trapped by the chains of history,
Bound by the ties of the past,
Blind to your powers that could melt the mountains,
Unwilling to be free, to break the fragile cast.

Within you lies what you may need,
To start believing in magic,
To find the elusive golden steed.

You could charm the beasts,
And the fairies too you could lure,
If only you heard the voices that beckon,
You could open the doors to fairyland for sure.

Within you lies what you most fear,
The whispers of desire,
The longing that hums right by your ear.

You try to hide the fire,
You try to drown the sounds,
They may not be the screams you imagine,
Because under your fears, music may just be found.

- © HAEM ROY
30th Oct, 2012.

...

Hawa ne achanak hi mod diya rukh,
Baantkar sapne, neend hi le gayi apne saath,
Jhul rahe the hum uske aanchal mein,
Ke zameen se na jaane kab mil gaye haath.

Sarakte Pal

Sarakte pal nishaan chhod gaye,
Mitti mein lakeerein,
Hawa mein paigaam chhod gaye.
In palon ki kahaani bhi kya bataaun tumhe,
Mutthi mein band saara jahaan chhod gaye.

Simatkar baithi hain woh ankahi baatein,
Cheekhe kaise dekho yeh chugalkhor saansein,
Dabe paon andar aaye,
Phir bhi saari khamoshi tod gaye.

Sarakte pal nishaan chhod gaye,
Mitti mein lakeerein,
Hawa mein paigaam chhod gaye.

Baatuni palkein chup rehna na jaane,
Machalti rahein badal ke sirhaane,
Hansi ki chitthiyan laaye,
Pannon se shabd hi saare daud gaye.

Sarakte pal nishaan chhod gaye,
Mitti mein lakeerein,
Hawa mein paigaam chhod gaye.

- © Haem Roy

Tumhare khayaal

Sehmi sehmi saansein,
pallu se bandhi tanhaayi,
sannate ki muslaadhar baarish,
aur tumhaare khayaalon ki razai.

Maayusi ki oas boondein,
badan par geeli sari,
darr se thithurta man,
aur tumhari chaahat ki dhoop.

Aahein bhare ye mann,
siskiyon se bayaan kare apna haal,
bhatakti raah mein gumraah hum,
aur tumhaari aawaz ki mashaal.

- © Haem Roy

Walking in the rain

I like walking in the rain because it hides my tears.
I like walking in the rain because it soaks my fears.

The rain drowns my doubts,
The rain washes my worries,
It keeps me in the moment,
The past, the future, packed away and sent.

I like walking in the rain because it makes me forget.
I like walking in the rain because it tunes my mind to reset.

The rain brings me romance,
The rain makes me dream,
I build my world within those droplets,
I imagine conversations, moments and the life I expect.

I like walking in the rain because it makes me smile,
Let me walk in the rain for another mile.

- © Haem Roy

Kya maanga?

Titli ke rang nahin maange,
Na chand, na taare, na aasmaa,
Bas itna hi toh maanga tumse humne,
Jatao zara apni chaahat ka nazraana.

Phoolon ke baag nahin maange,
Na moti, na heere, na jevraat,
Kuch bada nahin maange tumse,
Kyun mann tumhara phir hichkicha raha?

Satrangi indradhanush na maanga,
Na zid ki, ke kadmon tale ho jahaa,
Duniya bhulaane nahin kahaa tumse,
Lekin tumne meri guzaarish ko bhula diya.

Sang e marmar ka mahal na maanga,
Na sone ki chaadar, na chaandi ka bistra,
Na lutne na lootaane ki baatein hui tumse,
Aakhir kiss baat ne tumhe itna darra diya?

Pyaar ka vaada kataihi nahin maanga,
Na koi kasam, na saath janmon ka,
Abhi toh shuruvaat hai, kya hoga inse?
Bas thoda apnapan jataane ko kahaa.

Na hum tum jaane, na jaane yeh jaahaan,
Jo kal hoga woh kal dekha jaayega,
Aaj itna hi toh maanga tumse humne,
Jatao zara apni chaahat ka nazraana.

- © Haem Roy

Wedding blurs

UPDATE: This post was picked as a weekend must read by blogadda. Thank you for the support guys - http://blog.blogadda.com/2012/06/30/indian-bloggers-queries-conversations-best-blog-posts

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The drone of the shehnai music was filling the background.

I could see him standing right before me. The tall, lean physique. Smiling as he always did. With a glint of mischief in his eyes, the sparkle visible even from a distance. My tears instantly dried up at his sight. His smile had always had that effect on me. I had started believing that crying around him was impossible.

My mother pulled me away and I lost sight of him among the throngs of women. They were applying make up on my face and draping my sari. It was all a blur really. I just followed all instructions like a puppet, always keeping a lookout for him. Where did he disappear?

He would always do that. Disappear without notice. Back in college, we had just become friends. His sister was my classmate, and that's how we met. We'd hang out in the canteen, and his resounding laughter would just draw everyone in. He left every girl giggling. The way he imitated the teachers, but never disrespected them. The way he would immediately pull a chair for me when I arrived, as if it was a reflex. I was the quiet one, but he never let me get lost in the crowd. He would pull me into the conversation with a question directed at me. And all so nonchalantly. So effortlessly.

They were pulling at my hair now. Ouch! It hurt. Some pins and flowers being poked in, and the fake bun was too heavy. But I didn't really care much to object. The parlour lady asked me if I wanted something specific, and I just pointed to my mum, who was much to eager to provide inputs. Then all I had to do was sit and let them fiddle with me.

Now that I think about it, I always tried to escape making a decision, or forming an opinion. Only he could catch me. He sensed it early on, and never let my sly attempts succeed. He would ask me, "Where do you want to go for dinner tonight?" And my response would always be, "Anywhere is good." But he was relentless, and would bombard me with questions, till he understood what my mood was. "You feel like having Chinese? How about some Bamboo rice? Or you want some parathas? Pasta?" He knew every expression. He was quite different from most guys that way. All my girlfriends would complain how their boyfriends never paid enough attention to the little things, or how they never caught the moods and gestures. With him, he never missed a thing! Maybe it was because he was the only man in the house, with three women.

The women around me were getting noisier. They wanted to sing. I hated all this drama, and singing and dancing.

He loved it. He'd sing to me, and never paid heed to my objections.

Someone knocked on the door to beckon the 'bride'. They ushered me out and towards the mandap. My eyes wandered, and found him. Locked on him. I could sense a smile on my face. How could anyone be so charming?

The pandit began to chant mantras. The fire was too hot. I could feel the burning on my face. I just turned it away and faced him. Nothing mattered when I could see him, and that smile of his.

The way his thick lips gave way to reveal those slightly crooked teeth. The way his eyes turned really small, and his left cheek caved in to form a dimple. When we had first kissed, his thick lips were such a surprise for me. He was a good kisser yes. A really good one. And those hands. It's like they had a mind of his own. Playing with my hair, a finger down my cheeks, fondling my neck, tightly holding my back - so caring and yet so strong. Gentle, yet never clumsy.

My hand was now above the fire. Rice being thrown, and so much of commotion. They asked me to get up for the pheras. I was getting dizzy.

I had never wanted a big wedding. I always told him that I would prefer a court marriage any day. But he would argue, that our parents would be unhappy if we didn't marry according to customs. "A wedding is more for the parents sometimes, than the bride and groom", he would tell me. And the way he coaxed me, how could I ever disagree?

I sat back down. Sindoor was being applied to my forehead. I closed my eyes to avoid getting it in my eyes.
You know, if something ever got into my eye, he'd come real close and softly blow into the eye. Whether the dust particle left the eye or not I don't know, but his hot breath on my face always sent shivers down my spine. He always made me feel like a teenager with a crush. I'd go weak kneed when he'd whisper in my ears. I'd almost let out a giggle when he held my hand on the road. Not that he didn't notice. He knew the effect he had on me very well. And he was pretty happy with himself for that! And just to make me feel better, he'd tell me how much he adored me. I loved his stories of "When I saw you the first time..." and "You look so beautiful when...". He indulged me.

The magalsutra was in my neck now. I was married. And there he was, grinning from ear to ear. I touched the mangalsutra, looked at him, and his smile made me smile too.

They made me get up and sit on a chair. I looked around. I was surrounded by relatives. As I turned back in his direction, he was gone! I looked about frantically, but he was nowhere to be seen. That is when the blood rushed back to my head. He couldn't have been here. It was impossible. It was an illusion. That is when one tear finally escaped my eye and rolled down my cheek.

I remembered. He was gone. And, here I was, married to someone else. But I didn't care. I could live all my life with just a memory of those two beautiful years. Live with the pain of the fact that I had lost him. On that fateful day. That he was gone. 

Forever. 

Flailing arms, quiet surrender

Her game was finally over.
She was not the kind of person who'd let people in. She'd pretend, she'd smile and she'd put on a show of strength to hide every emotion. But for the first time, she had opened up her heart - to him. For the first time she had let someone into her mind.
Around him, all her facade was futile. He saw right through her smile, and caught her moist eyes. He never said a word, he never offered help, but he always stood by, playing along as she tried hard to hide. almost like an adult indulging a child with a game of peek a boo.
I can manage on my own, she'd say. Of course you can, he'd answer. But I'm here just in case. And that made her heart rise. That made her trust him. Trust him enough to even show her tears.
It just flowed. Her past. Her struggles. how she had made it through and how she had withstood those who tried taking advantage of her. She was a strong woman, this one.
But he was no fool.
He knew that the world had made her lock up her gentleness. There was a soft spoken maiden under those determined eyes. And he resolved to set her free.
He heard her stories of betrayal. Her stories of abuse. No wonder she had lost trust.
And all through, he just held her. No words were needed. Words would only make it frivolous. Words would only bring sympathy. She didn't need sympathy. She deserved care. Trust. Love.
And he'd give her that. Even if she fought him off. Even if she pushed him away. Because those were just her reflexes. Her battle scars.
He was determined to heal them. And his determination was what she needed more than anything. Ever.

Stupid, silly me

I met him at a party,
We got along like wild fire,
Spoke for hours and laughed for hours,
With a promise to meet the next day
We said goodbye under the stars.
And promptly he called,
There was a smile in his voice
Asking to meet, rather dying to meet,
He said to me he could hardly wait,
His enthusiasm nothing could beat.

How could I not see?
That he had a thing for me
Oh stupid silly me.

He'd bring me flowers,
He pampered me like crazy,
Took me to the best places in the city,
I was the queen for him
And he was smitten completely.

How could I not see?
That he was in love with me
Oh stupid silly me.

But then came the time,
When the fights slowly began,
He called me names and locked me up,
my every word annoyed him
And I just seemed to mess up.

How could I not see?
This wasn't supposed to be
Oh stupid silly me.

He'd return home late,
He would not even kiss me,
I wondered why he never spoke to me,
Till I found a picture hidden,
and it wasn't a picture of me.

How could I not see?
That he was betraying me
How could I not see?
That we were no longer 'we'
Oh stupid silly me.

- © Haem Roy

My music and nature soaked weekend

I had heard about it through a friend, but I wasn't really sure what The Great Gig in the Sky really was. I read up the page, I asked around, I tried to figure it out, but in my head, there were still a load of doubts. I can get pretty introverted in social situations, and I wondered, would I feel lost here. Add the fact that my musical inclination is sporadic and very mood-induced.

But my love for the outdoors, hikes, treks, open air and more got me going for it. And let me begin with - I am glad I did.

To introduce the concept, The Great Gig in the Sky is something started by a group called Jumpstart India. They travel with a band / singer-songwriter to a location that is nestled amidst nature, and that is where the gig is. No frills, no equipment, no fancy lights or speakers, no set-up or stage. Just a small selected audience, and the performer. This is usually an overnight camping trip, and the best part is that you get to travel, interact and get to know the musicians you are listening to. Music is better appreciated when you appreciate the people creating it. Isn't it?

Now that I have explained it, about the one I went for.

We travelled with a band called Dischordian. Here emerged my second hesitation. I had never heard the. Or heard of them either. They describe their music in these words: Spanning multiple genres, but primarily grounded in folk, punk, and blues, Dischordian’s sound is difficult to categorise or describe. 


But would I like it? Would they be a bunch of snooty band members who just stomped around?

Fast forward to the bus ride. Hot as hell, and sweaty, it was where we awkwardly smiled at each other. A courteous hi, and a basic ice breaker round of introductions. We arrived at Kondivane, gasping for something cool, a breeze, a gush of air, something. Heading for a local hut, the fan turned into the second ice breaker, as everyone plopped under it.

Lunch and lazy bonding, some talk and getting to know each other was followed by impromptu jamming as a Ukulele was discovered. Cut to looking for a decent spot to swim, in the parched stream. As one of the band members put it, Dhiren from Jumpstart tricked us into a mini hike by guiding us to a spot a little further ahead, before we decided it wasn't large enough and walked back to the main stream. Loads of fun followed, splashing about, and even recreating 'We will rock you' with water splashes (yes, I am not kidding!) To my utter delight, the band members turned out to be total fun, with no airs, and a great sense of humour.

We learnt how to pitch tents and pitched our own tents in an open field. The band was working with us, clearing ground, pitching tents, moving stones and more. Then we headed to a 'chowk' sort of area, under a tree, for the main event of the trip - the gig. There were just a few of us on this trip, and that transformed into a more intimate setting and performance. The band played some really nice songs from their latest album, and I discovered a new sound. I was also fascinated by the number of different instruments they could play and used for their music. They had us jamming along, as everyone drowned in the general mood of the night. And it was even better, when all the lights were turned completely off.

We were told that this gig that lasted over two hours was one of the longest Great Gigs. Did not feel that long if you asked the audience. Tired and sleepy, everyone headed back to the freshly pitched tents, and decided to sleep under the stars! I was still hungover on music, so it was my headphones, my phone playlist and me gazing up making shapes out of the stars for a long time. I even got to use my brand new sleeping bag, but that is just a personal landmark! :)



The next day was pretty hot (still!) and lazy. Some decided to go back for a swim, while the rest just lazed around chatting, sketching, writing (only I did that!) and generally vegging out. More random jamming ensued.

If I had to, I could point out things to dislike. But the best part about this little trip was that it made me not want to point those out. Except the heat of course. You cannot ignore that. Nor can you do something about it. I dived in expecting no luxury, nothing big, and returned with some good friends and fond memories. A cooler time of the year would have helped a lot, but that did not stop us from having fun.

Jumpstart is a company that is new, young and has just kickstarted. They have a brilliant concept in this, and over time, they shall probably make it more professional. But I do hope that does not happen. Because, for me, the charm was in doing things together, in figuring out solutions to a glitch together, in a joint recce to decide on the location of the performance, and in the exchange of ideas that actually brings a group together.  I would definitely recommend something like this, but I will also throw in a warning. Do not sign up if you are used to luxuries everywhere you go, if you expect a prim and proper world around you and if you cannot bear the thought of roughing it out. That is not the purpose of these gigs. Sign up with an open mind, no huge expectations and a drive to have fun no matter what, and you shall have an experience you will be proud of.

Also, if you are travelling in the summer, carry shorts!
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You can find Dischordian on Facebook here or check out their website.

Check out what Jumpstart is and does here.

Photos Clicked by Manish Usapkar and Vilas Chavan. All copyrights with Jumpstart India.

Drunk on Music

So, I spent the weekend on a musical-nature trip with a band (more on this in another post). Nature has always inspired me to write. Words flow in like the rain, and peace just drowns me. I can sit quietly and watch the sky full of stars for hours. And this time, we had music to lift the mood a notch higher. Obviously then, my pen could not be left alone. I scribbled some things and here is one of them:

DRUNK ON MUSIC

Rhythms that fill, the streams and the hills,
The strings hum tunes, singing with the wind,
The stars blink, drunk on the music,
Nature moves, rejoicing in sync.

We've carried backpacks of joy,
We've brought along smiles,
All we need is our music,
And we can carry on for miles.

Miles turn to minutes, and minutes just dash by,
When you're drunk on music, the world all passes by.
Let the birds chirp with you, for they too want in,
No one's left out, even the trees are jamming.

- © Haem Roy
29th April, 2012.


I also wrote another one in Hindi. But I don't have a title for it yet. Here it is. If you have any suggestions, let me know:


Chuppi si chaayi hai, aankhon mein dhundhlaahat,

Saans dheemi dheemi, bas dhunon ki aahat.

Yaadon ke palchinnhon ko hum sang liye,

Jholi mein lamhon ko sanjooye,

Apni dhunki mein sabko sang liye,

Sab sunn liya hamne kuch na kehte hue.

Chuppi si chaayi hai, aankhon mein dhundhlaahat,

Saans dheemi dheemi, bas dhunon ki aahat.

Palkon ke neeche chipe manmauji khayaal,

Chaahein woh fal latke jo taaron ki daal,

Jhoomte gaate hue khushi se behaal,

Phool bhi chale dekho tumhari hi chaal.

Chuppi si chaayi hai, aankhon mein dhundhlaahat,

Saans dheemi dheemi, bas dhunon ki aahat.

- © Haem Roy
29th April, 2012.

The butterflies

All is calm as you walk ahead,
On the road your gaze is set,
Bam! Wham! You spot him then
Forget the who, what, where, when.

Within you they start to rise…
Don't you love the butterflies?
I do. I do.
Don't you love the butterflies?
Don't you?

You look at him, he smiles back
Sparkly eyes and you lose your track
Clouds of a dream floating in
On your face a nervous silly grin.

They follow his little bright eyes....
Don't you love the butterflies?
I do. I do.
Don't you love the butterflies?
Don't you?

Your oyster is the world
Headlong you are hurled
Dizzy at the ride yet wanting more
You love the rush. encore! Encore!

They discovered where happiness lies...
Don't you love the butterflies?
I do. I do.
Don't you love the butterflies?
Don't you?

You think of him, the voice, the hair,
You love yourself, sniff the air,
The tingles, excitement, sober highs,
Leaving you with a bundle of sighs.

You just can't control the smiles...
Don't you love the butterflies?
I do. I do.
Don't you love the butterflies?
Don't you?

- © Haem Roy
19th April, 2012.

The story of my dreams

Just a blink and it's gone
It didn't wait too long
And now I try to remember, the dream that's left in embers.

It started black and white
A glimmer, some shapes, a little light,
People I know, people I don't,
The star cast sometimes totally unknown.
Thats my voice I hear
And me I follow
I see love and romance
Smiles, laughter and all that hey-ho!

But just a blink and it's gone
It didn't wait too long
And now I try to remember, the dream that's left in embers.

Colours are filling in,
A movie in my head.
If I was on a seat I'd grab it
In anticipation of what's ahead.
Suspense and thrills, chase sequences,
Location switch, even surreal experiences.
Some people lost but I cling on
The heart racing like a marathon.

But just a blink and it's gone
It didn't wait too long
And now I try to remember, the dream that's left in embers.

I jump off cliffs, escape into tunnels,
A spy, crook, lover, so many role reversals.
I try to keep up with my REM cycle,
The deeper I sleep, the more my dream tangles.
Carried away into a strange world every night,
I wake with a start, a smile or a fright.
Without a goodbye, I forget and we part,
Good morning to a world I know by heart.

Just a blink and it's gone
It didn't wait too long
And now I try to remember, the dream that's left in embers.

- © Haem Roy
11th April, 2012.